The physical cage: 

• Should be wider than it is tall. Birds are more like aeroplanes and less like helicopters; they do not fly straight up and down.  

• What is it made of?  

  • Powder-coated metals are the best option (ensure they are cleaned before use). 

  • Galvanised wire is common for outdoor aviaries. Galvanised wire is zinc based, and can be toxic to birds if ingested. Outdoor aviaries should be scrubbed thoroughly to minimise the available particles that can be ingested.  

• Is the size suitable? This is highly variable and needs to account for how much time the bird will be spending in the cage. Ultimately, the biggest cage that can fit in the available space is best.  

• Is the cage spacing appropriate? Too large a width will mean the bird can possibly escape, or get their head caught when trying to escape.  

• How does it open? Are the doors able to be safely secured when open to avoid injuring the bird? Does it allow easy access for the person tending to the cage to access all areas? 

• Has it been adequately cleaned before use? 

  • All new cages should be thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed with a vinegar and water solution (1 part white vinegar, 10 parts water). This helps to remove residual metal particles/dust that can be ingested and cause toxicity. 

  • F10 (a veterinary disinfectant) can be used to clean second hand cages and limit disease spread.  

Perches: 

• Natural branches from Australian native plants (eg. eucalyptus) are the best option. They should be cleaned (not necessarily scrubbed) as per the cage cleaning directions.  

• Remove all dowel perches (even if they came with the cage). These are not a natural substrate and can cause problems on a birds’ feet in the longer term.  

• Calcium/Cement/Sandpaper perches are not needed or recommended. They do very little to keep nails short (what they are typically marketed for), and can harm a birds foot with extended perching time.  

• Avoid rope perches. Parrots, in particular, have a tendency to chew at these. Small bits of fibrous material can build up in the parrots gastrointestinal tract over time and eventually lead to a life threatening obstruction.  
   

Toys:

• What are they made of? Safe toys are typically acrylics, stainless steel, recyclable papers or cardboards and natural foliage. With a bit of thought and creativity, toys can be easily constructed from objects we’d normally dispose of (toilet rolls, cereal boxes, etc). 

  • Avoid rope and fibres (for the same reason as why we avoid rope perches) 

  • Avoid metals that are not stainless steel 

• Think about if there is any way your bird could get a foot, wing or head tangled in the toy. If it could, it is not a suitable bird toy.  
   

Hygiene and cleaning:

• Food and water bowls (or devices) should be washed in hot soapy water and rinsed thoroughly each and every day.  

  • Also think about where they are placed in the cage to avoid them being directly soiled and spoiled by droppings. 

• The cage bottom can be lined with paper or a paper based cat litter. This should be changed daily or every few days, to minimise build up of harmful bacteria and fungi which can be inhaled or ingested by your bird (and you!). 

• Avoid saw dust and wood shavings - these have lots of dust and sometimes toxic odours. 

• Shredded paper, though not technically harmful, can encourage nesting behaviour; it is best to steer away from this.  

• If an outdoor aviary is in use, some additional things need to be considered surrounding flooring and hygiene - speak to us in a consult about this. 

• The entire cage and its furnishings should be cleaned regularly. Apart from the obvious hygiene component, the perches and furniture can be replaced in altered locations, giving your bird a new space to explore.